Majestic Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is the largest Lake in South America and is shared between Peru and Bolivia. It is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,812 m (12,500 ft) above sea level. Lake Titicaca is fed by rainfall and meltwater from glaciers on the sierras that abut the Altiplano. The lake has 41 islands among which many are inhabited and densely populated and also has floating artificial islands (Los Uros).

The origin of the name Titicaca is unknown. It has been translated as "Rock Puma ", allegedly because of its resemblance to the shape of a puma hunting a rabbit, combining words from the local languages Quechua and Aymara. But translated in Mauritian creole, TitiCaca means "Shit that smells"..

Filed under  //  blue   bolivia   lake titicaca   peru   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue  
Posted

Sunday Carnival in Copacabana, Bolivia

On my way to La Paz from Puno, my bus stopped in Copacabana for a couple of hours and I am not sure if it's every Sunday, but they had a kind of mini street party with many people in their traditional dresses and carnival costume parading and dancing along the streets of Copacabana. Maybe I just got lucky or maybe it's a custom they have every Sunday. Also, another interesting thing is that everybody had decorated their cars and vans with flowers and parading around with their family, very proud of their car and decorations.

Filed under  //  bolivia   carnival   copacabana   party   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue  
Posted

Copacabana, Bolivia

One of the border cities on the Peru - Bolivia border is Copacabana. It's on the Lake TitiCaca shore and it's a nice little touristic border city. On my way to La Paz, after border control, the bus stopped there for a couple of hours before we headed to LaPaz. It was my first exposure to Bolivia, Bolivian people and culture. Very very different from Peru - people are usually dressed up in more ethnic and traditional dresses. Took the opportunity to take some pictures and enjoy some good seafood from Lake TitiCaca before heading off to LaPaz.

Filed under  //  bolivia   copacabana   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue   village  
Posted

La Paz, Bolivia

La Paz, the capital Bolivia is the highest capital in the whole world with altitudes ranging anywhere from 3100 metres (10170 feet) to 4058 metres (13,313 feet). The city is not spectacular in itself, but like any big city, it has many people and this has many things to do and very terrible traffic. One of the differences from any major city I've seen though is the extreme of ethnic traditional people and the stereotype metro city moden inhabitant. Everyone lives in harmony, traditional dresses intermingled with modern dresses. It has to be the cheapest city I've been so far in my South America trip. In fact, I got a hotel room - yes a hotel room with own bathroom & tv and breakfast - not a hostel dorm bed - for $9 a night. 

Also, while in LaPaz, I decided to take some Spanish clases and went to the SpeakEasy Institute and got 15 hours of Spanish classes - 1:1 with a teacher and it was great to have somebody to speak with who'll correct me and guide me in the right direction, as I found out, I do understand most of what they say in Spanish (due to it's similarity to French) but just have no practice at all. We acted many scenarios and just spoke in Spanish and it was pretty good.

 

Filed under  //  big city   bolivia   la paz   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue  
Posted

Food of Bolivia

Food in Bolivia is usually served in huge huge portions. I thought only the US had these mega king size portions, but South America follows very closely with portion sizes. Much of the food is meat based and the few different meats they eat are llamma and alpaca meat after they harvest the wool for some 5 times, Cuy (Guinea Pig), Lechon (suckling pig) and then the regular meats. As in Peru, Bolivians like to eat hot food and anywhere, the salsa de Aji would always be on the dinner table. The food is decent but it's was my favorite food in the world. After a few days eating that, I really did not want to see another huge plate of meat anymore. In fact, while in Bolivia, I ate lots of Indian and Chinese food.. as they had a couple of these places in LaPaz.. sometimes eating familiar food rather than new exotic foods is nice and comforting and simple.

 

Filed under  //  bolivia   bolivian food   food   meat   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue  
Posted

Cholitas Wrestling (Lucha Libre), La Paz, Bolivia

Cholita Wrestling is very famous and popular event in Bolivia. The modern day use of the name Chola and Cholita in Bolivia applies to women dressed in traditional clothing which includes a massive skirt with petticoats, a blouse and shawl or blanket all topped off with a bowler hat. Usually you won't expect these traditional women to be wrestling with each other and/or with men, but that's what Cholita Wrestling is about.

They have special seats and tickets for tourists in the front seats, but it's very popular with locals too and the stadium was very packed. It happens every Sunday in El Alto and is WILD !! Same as WWF wrestling, most of it seem pre-staged, but entertaining nonetheless. Difference is that the crowd throws stuff at the wrestlers - orange peels, empty bottles, chicken bones, fruits, popcorn, etc..But, the crowd also takes a hit. The wrestlers don't hesitate to come at the crowd, throw stuff at the crowd, water, coke, popcorn, whatever they can get their hands on or just forcefully take the crowd's stuff - water/drinks etc... I got a good throw of coke on me while there and stayed sticky the entire time.

 

 

Filed under  //  bolivia   cholita   fighting   la paz   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue   video   wrestling  
Posted

Sucre, Bolivia

After Potosi, I took a 3 hour bus ride and went to Sucre. Sucre is called Cuidad Blanca by the people in Bolivia, due to its abundance in white colonial buildings in the main square. It is yet another Unesco World Heritage Center that I am visiting. I think that during this trip, this is the 8th Unesco World Heritage that I am visiting.

Anyways, Sucre was not too happening. Stayed one night and left the next night to go back to LaPaz. Enjoy some pictures of the nice architecture of the city.

 

Filed under  //  bolivia   south america backpacking   sucre   travel   travelogue   unesco site  
Posted

Potosi Silver Mines, Potosi, Bolivia

After finishing the Salar de Uyuni tour, I took a bus to go to Potosi in route to Sucre. Potosi is a very small town, with not much happening, but it's a major silver mining town, where the people still use the traditional ways to mine and earn their living. It used to be one of the largest and wealthiest cities in South America, once upon a time, when mining was at its peak.

I took a mine tour, where we actually visit a working mine where the people still work in the same traditional ways. All miners are organized in cooperatives and whatever they mine is their earnings. It's sad to know that most of them don't live past 40 years old due to all the dangerous gases and poisons they are being exposed to while mining.

Before going to the tour, we stopped at a shop and bought some coca leaves, cigarettes, alcohol (96% PROOF Alchohol and they drink that thing) and explosives for the miners are gifts. Before giving it to the miners, we offered some to the Mine Gods, that protect the miners and provide them with luck in finding the best minerals and silver. Then we actually visited the mines and talked to the working miners and even helped them a bit with some shoveling and stuff.

We had a very diverse group of people in our Tour group - one Israeli, one Norwegian, one British, one American, one Dutch and one Mauritian. Very rare to find these nationalities all together in the same van :)

A bit of history of Potosi taken from Wikipedia.org - Sad that because the mules could not work in the high altitude city of Potosi, they replaced 4 mules by 20 African slaves, who will last more than 2 months working in the mines.

"It is from Potosí that most of the silver shipped through the Spanish Main came. According to official records, 45,000 tons of pure silver were mined from Cerro Rico from 1556 to 1783. Of this total, 9,000 tons went to the Spanish monarchy. Indian laborers, forced byFrancisco de Toledo, Count of Oropesa through the traditional Incan mita institution of contributed labor, came to die by the thousands, not simply from exposure and brutal labor, but by mercury poisoning: in the patio process the silver-ore, having been crushed to powder by hydraulic machinery, was cold-mixed with mercury and trodden to an amalgam by the native workers with their bare feet. [2] The mercury was then driven off by heating, producing deadly vapors.

To compensate for the diminishing indigenous labor force, the colonists made a request in 1608 to the Crown in Madrid to begin allowing for the importation of 1500 to 2000 African slaves per year. An estimated total of 30,000 African slaves were taken to Potosí throughout the colonial era. African slaves were also forced to work in the Casa de la Moneda as acémilas humanas (human mules). Since mules would die after couple of months pushing the mills, the colonists replaced the four mules with twenty African slaves. (Angola Maconde 1999)"

 

 

Filed under  //  bolivia   mining   potosi   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue  
Posted

Geysers, Hot Springs and Laguna Blanca (Salar de Uyuni Tour - Part 3)

3rd day and last of the Salar de Uyuni your, we had to get up very very early, 3:30a.m - 4:00a.m I think. We reluctantly woke up in the very cold morning, had a very cold fash wash and toothbrush and headed off to see natural gysers, dip into hot springs and see the Laguna Blanca before heading back to Uyuni.

The geysers were very sulphuric and extremely hot and it was amazing to see amidst all this heat and pressure, there will still patches of snow and ice all over the place. After the geysers, we went to a natural hot springs to dip in before breakfast. Was a tough decision to decide whether to undress in this cold.. I finally decided for and it was a very very good decision until it was time to come out of the hot springs! It was freezing cold at above 5000 metres and froze myself up while trying to dry myself up and dress up. But a good hot chololate and pancakes for breakfast made up for the cold.

After the hot springs, we went to see the Laguna Blanca, which as the name suggests, is a white lake.. the extreme concentration of salt makes it white. We checked that out, followed by many Landscapes that Salvador Dali used as inspiration for his paintings. The rest of the day was mostly driving and driving to get back to Uyuni, our starting point.

Filed under  //  bolivia   hot springs   salar de uyuni   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue   uyuni  
Posted

Inca Mummies, Laguna Honda, Pink Flamingos and Laguna Colorada (Salar de Uyuni Tour - Part 2)

After a very good night sleep on our Salt Beds at the Hotel de Sal, the next day, we set off early again to go and see more marvels of nature in the Salar de Uyuni. The plan for today was to visit the Inca Mummies, the Laguna Honda, the Laguna Colorada and climb up to above 5000 feet to our next hotel de Sal to spend the night.

We started the day with the visit of the Inca mummies - The mummies of Coquesa. The mummies have been preserved in ritual caves and were found by the villagers. These mummies are over 1200 years old and are still in the fetal position that they were mumified in. Local villagers still pay respect to the mummies and give them coca leaves, drinks and fruits. Not really sure about the symbolism of it, maybe the mummies are their ancestors.

Then, we headed to Laguna Honda and it was such a spectacular sight to see the still lake and the reflection of the snow capped volcano in it.. picture perfect. We also spotted some wild pink flamingos in that lake. It's their natural habitat and while a few were pink, others were white. I did not know that pink is the color they take if they eat pink things. Otherwise, they take the color of what they eat. We chilled out there for a while and head lunch and I was amazed that for lunch, our cook/driver had prepared Chicken Cordon Bleu ! Could not beleive we were having Chicken Cordon Bleu and Pasta in the middle of a salt desert.

After lunch, we started our ascent up and as we got higher and higher in altitude, it started to get colder and colder and we started losing the distinction of what was salt and what was snow, as we also started having a lot of snow along the road. Huge patches of white snow on the brown soil, but also in may places, there were huge patches of white salt. Very very difficult to know what was what. On the way, we stopped at some amazing rock formations - a rock climber's paradise - to check out the sights and after that, we went the Laguna Colorada - another habitat for the pink flamingos and actually that lake is Red, Blue and White. It's being voted as one the new 7 wonders of the world. We chilled out there (literrally) for a while and then headed to our hotel de sal where we'd sleep for that night. The hotel was above 5500 metres above sea level and I think that's the highest place I've ever been in my life and going to sleep there. That altitude means, it gets very very cold at night. We had a nice dinner with the usual soup, typical bolivian main dish and desert and this time, they even gave us bottle of wine for free as it was our last night. 

After dinner, we all were taking about how cold that night will be and that the next morning, we were supposed to be up at 3:45a.m.. to be able to sleep through the cold, some of us took pills of mellatonin to ease the sleep and some of us took allergy medicine.. as that's also supposed to co-erse sleep. What a drug stricken group of people we were :) Anyways, the night went along find and every single one of these extra layers helped !!

Read about the first part of the tour here.

Read about the perspective free pictures on the Salar here.

 

Filed under  //  bolivia   flamingo   landscape   salar de uyuni   salt   south america backpacking   travel   travelogue   uyuni  
Posted